Beyond
A journey through the Dachstein
Dachstein, Austria · 2024
To see the world, things dangerous to come to, to see behind walls, draw closer, to find each other, and to feel. That is the purpose of LIFE. — The Secret Life of Walter Mitty
The earth is ART, the Photographer is only a Witness. — Yann Arthus-Bertrand
The Ascend Begins
12 framesWe arrived at Vorderer Gosausee around noon, and the view was breathtaking, magical and refreshing. I took a moment to internalize the frames that I saw there and took out my camera and my tripod. Capturing landscapes was not something that I was too keen on before. But the view and it’s serinity was so pure and perfect that I couldn’t imagine leaving that place without capturing it.
Gosausee Lake is a mountain lake situated at 920m above sea level, nestling amongst the highest mountains of the Salzkammergut. World traveller and naturalist Alexander Freiherr von Humboldt was overwhelmed by the beauty of the lake and its crowning glory - the “mighty towers of Dachstein”, and described it in his works as “the eye of God”. The lake is filled with clear water which is pure enough to quench the thirst of a returning hiker from the mountains.
Our first destination was the Hofpürglhütte, perched at 1,703 meters above sea level. After an hour-long photo session capturing the beauty of Gosausee, we began our ascent. The trail welcomed us with lush green paths, where every step seemed light, and our hearts were filled with joy. We paused occasionally, turning back to watch the lake grow smaller, its shimmering surface slowly disappearing beneath us.
For a more relaxed experience, a cable car offers easy access to the mountain’s summit and its stunning views. But for us, the journey was the real reward, with the destination as the cherry on top—both literally and figuratively—offering breathtaking views that made every climb worthwhile. Unaware of the challenges that awaited us, we climbed steadily, one step at a time, as the breeze and the beauty of the nature, urging as to move forward.
It was a descend towards the hut for another hour. The sun was slowly moving towards the horizon, shedding it’s final lights for the day. The light that photographers love and the time known as the “golden hour” was upon us. Everything looked amazingly beautiful.
After losing our way and trekking rocky paths for nearly two hours, we finally found our bearings. Six hours into the hike, we reached the summit of Steiglpass at 2,018 meters. From there, we caught our first glimpse of the Hofpürglhütte, our haven for the night, nestled in the distance below.
This view from the hut was epic and this is definitely one of my favourite picture from the whole trip. I feel that the grains in the image adds a nice textured feel to it and hence decided to keep it that way.
As we took in the stunning views, savouring the hut’s food and converse with the hut employees, the sun slowly settled behind the horizon. As the sun sets, our exhaustion from the day slowly dawned on us. Excited for a new trail and more epic views, I slowly drifted into a peaceful sleep, replaying the days memories.
Changing landscapes
13 framesThe distant mountains are reflected in the eyes of the dragonfly. — Kobayashi Issa
After a good nights sleep, we woke up excited for the new adventure that awaits us. We descended into the valley and later by the side of a stream had our home-made breakfast. Our destination for the day was Austriahütte which was around 5 hours of hiking from Hofpürglhütte.
As we completed our first descent, we found ourselves standing before a serene chapel. Inscribed on its front were the words: “In der lebendigen Natur geschieht nichts, das nicht in Verbindung mit dem Ganzen steht,” which translates to "In living nature, nothing happens that is not connected to the whole."
This profound statement reflects a deep understanding of nature’s interconnectedness. It reminds us that every event and every element in the natural world is part of a larger, unified system. Whether seen or unseen, each moment is tied to the greater balance of life, urging us to appreciate the delicate harmony that surrounds us. Mulling over the thoughts and enjoying the view, we began another ascent via Sulzenalmen.
We observed the skies changing its mood, slowly turning into a cloudy overcast. This was not something that we were prepared for. We increased the pace of our hiking to escape the rain and reach our destination as fast as possible. On our way we met with an Austrian couple who warned us to be ready with our shampoos.
Soon our hut was visible for us and we took a small snack break since the clouds started to disperse, without distrubing our hike. Freddy randomly suggested on the upside down perspective of the world which was quite interesting. It is somewhat distrubing in a sense that we are never accustomed to a visual perspective where the weight of the whole frame is concentrated on the upper half while giving negative space and a sense of airiness to the bottom part.
Unlike the rocky barren mountains of the previous day, we were happy to encounter lushy green paths, some animals and more humans even though the skies were getting darker and darker as the hours passed on. But our destination was not that far ahead now and our spirits heightened on the thougth of warm food and a great shower.
As we set off towards the Austriahütte, a light drizzle began, prompting us to quicken our pace.
We arrived around 7:00 pm, welcomed by the warmth of a hot shower and a comforting meal of dumplings and pancake soup. Afterward, we stepped outside just in time to catch the sunset, its golden light casting a serene glow over the landscape, making the day's end poetic.
Between stones & sky
10 framesWe set off at dawn, the world still hushed beneath the first rays of sunlight. The trees and horizon glowed, our early start rewarded with the quiet beauty of the morning.
The air grew cooler, and the vast walls of stone towering above us seemed to close in, creating a sense of isolation and raw, untouched wilderness. Along the way, we encountered fellow hikers navigating the same difficult trail, their bright voices a welcome contrast to the harsh landscapes of the Edelgrieß. They hailed from different corners of the world, sharing stories and advice on the best routes, as they guided us through the paths and explaining the nature of the terrain. Together, we scrambled over rocks, using both hands and feet to steady ourselves on the unforgiving slopes.
As we glanced back, our previous inn lay bathed in golden light, nestled among the trees as if painted into the landscape, a perfect scene from an artist’s hand. But soon, that peaceful moment gave way to the rugged reality ahead. The path grew steeper, the terrain rough and unforgiving. Each step felt heavier as we pressed forward, the once soft earth replaced by sharp rocks and uneven ground. The climb demanded both strength and focus, testing our resolve as we navigated the jagged slopes, hand over foot, toward the heights that beckoned us onward.
At 2,532 meters, the landscape opened up into a vast expanse of stone and snow, a quiet, rugged beauty that left us speechless. Standing there, we felt both small and exhilarated. In the distance, new trail markers came into view, leading us toward Gutenberghaus—a reassuring sign after the long day’s climb.
Together we reached the edge of the glacier, where a small patch of snow still lingered, offering a brief, refreshing pause. The last leg of the ascent grew steeper, and the terrain beneath us became slippery, loose gravel shifting with every step. We moved carefully, aware of the sliding ground beneath our feet, and though a sense of fear crept in, we pushed forward. With each step, the summit drew nearer.
After passing Gruber Scharte, we descended through grassy fields until Gutenberghaus appeared around a corner.
We slipped off our boots, enjoyed the food, and took in the stunning views from 2,146 meters, overlooking Ramstein am Dachstein. Over goulash soup and Kaiserschmarrn, we swapped stories with a fellow hiker and as the stars became visible in the dark sky, I decided to take some photos and then went back slowly to the bed.
The last day
4 framesThe last day of our trip was on us. We slowly decended towards the village Kulm. It was a descend of more than 1000 meteres and we were already feeling our legs and knees due to the tough trails of the previous days. On the way we met some eager sheeps who were interested in the contents of our bags and also our breakfast which we barely saved from these sheeps.
After enjoying our last breakfast on the mountains on a bench and taking in the beautiful view, we continued downhill despite the pain.